1/Climbing the Glenfiddich range, one rung at a time. Three bottles this week: the 12 at $79, the 14 Bourbon Reserve at $138, the 15 at $140. Each step up asks more of you. The question isn't which is best. It's what each step buys, and what the younger bottle still gives the drinker who's climbed past it.
2/Up to the 14 Bourbon Reserve, $138: two more years and $59 more. Strong oak under heather, vanilla, honey and barley, with a touch of citrus zest. Going up, it gives a 12 drinker about 96% of what the 12 does — what's different is mostly strength and those two years of age. Coming back down, the 12 gives a 14 drinker about 95% of what the 14 does, for 57% of its price.
3/Up to the 15, $140: one more year and $2 more. Cooked plums and stewing rhubarb, a little currant leaf, then sultana and sweet dried fruit. Going up, the 15 gives a 14 drinker about 67% of what the 14 does. It isn't just more of the same — what's different is mostly the extra sherry and dried fruit. Coming back down, the 14 gives a 15 drinker about 75% of what the 15 does, for 99% of its price.
4/A yes for each. The 12 for any night, at $79 — pear and apple over a dry, nutty core. The 14 Bourbon Reserve when the two years and the strength are the point. The 15 when you want the extra sherry and dried fruit. Poured at home, the 12 and the 14 each sit under a $13 pint by the standard drink; the 15 lands just over it. Three drams, each with its own drinker. More is not always better — just different.
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