Chivas Regal XV 15: rich, dry fruit with a cognac-cask finish

First, the bottle itself. The nose on the XV 15 is marmalade, almond and warm cinnamon buns, and the whole thing reads as rich, dry fruit with an extra lush layer from the cognac cask. It is thoroughly integrated: the cognac sits respectfully alongside the scotch rather than shouting over it. The palate runs to dark fruit and toffee, velvety and smooth, with a little wood spice on the finish. It is built for cold nights.

What to pay. Chivas Regal XV 15 is $89 at Dan Murphy's this week. From what we've seen it usually sells around $89, so this week is its ordinary price; the lowest we've seen is $86 and the highest is $89, which is to say it holds fairly steady. On a per-pour basis that works out to about $4.03 a standard drink, which is a touch under the roughly $6.28 a standard drink you'd pay for a pint at the pub. A pour at home, then, for less than a pint out.

What its neighbours' drinkers would pay. Here is the trick worth knowing: the drinkers of the bottles nearest the XV 15 were each asked what they'd pay for it, starting from what they already pay for their own. A Dewar's 18 drinker lands at about $110, which is 84% of what their own bottle costs them; they mark the XV 15 down for not being from the Highlands and for being younger than theirs. Turn it around and a Chivas Regal XV 15 drinker puts Dewar's 18 at about 96% of their own bottle, marking it down for being older than theirs and for the name on the label. Across the drinkers of the bottles nearest the XV 15, the answers run from $54 to $110. At $89, this week's price sits inside what those drinkers would pay.

The stand-ins. Two bottles sit close enough to step in.

Dewar's 18, usually around $131. Toasted barley, buttered toast, toffee and chocolate-dusted raisins, sweet and creamy for its strength. To a Chivas Regal XV 15 drinker it gives about 96% of what the XV 15 does, for 147% of its price. It is the older, softer, more floral route to the same evening.

Chivas Regal 12, usually around $60, and seen between $58 and $60. Vanilla sponge, cut flowers and marzipan over a malty base, glossy in the mouth with gentle spice and a waft of smoke on the finish. To a Chivas Regal XV 15 drinker it gives about 95% of what the XV 15 does, for 67% of its price. It is the sibling, and it carries most of the family resemblance.

Who it's for. If the XV 15 is already your bottle, nothing here needs to change: $89 this week, rich dry fruit and that cognac-cask finish, and it is sitting at its usual price. If you want the same character for less, Chivas Regal 12 is the obvious move, and the $60 asks a lot less for most of what you came for. If you'd rather go the other way, older and gentler, Dewar's 18 is the one to reach for, and a Chivas Regal XV 15 drinker already rates it near their own. And if you're new to all three, start with the XV 15 at $89: it is the one everyone else in this little group keeps measuring against, which tells you plenty.